Waiting to board the ferry I was extremely excited, this was the one stop on my trip I was most keen to make. My love affair with the island started fourteen years ago, when I read a book called “I Love Capri” by Belinda Jones. Although a completely fiction romance novel the author wrote about the places the protagonist visits with such enthusiasm, and it sounded magical to a 14-year-old. Disembarking from the ferry at Marina Grande I tried to figure out my way to the bus stop for Anacapri and my hotel. It took me a few attempts and asking a local before I found the correct place. The bus made its way up the hillside around the hairpin bends. The driver spoke little English but was very helpful, even going as far as stopping the bus where I needed to get off and asking an elderly man which way I needed to walk. It turned out my bed and breakfast was only a 2-minute walk along the road.
The hotel was so quaint with only three rooms. The lady that checked me in was very friendly and the room was decorated so beautifully and homely. After having a shower, I went out to explore Anacapri and search for some food. However, being out of season a lot of the places were closed and it appeared I was a little late for lunch at the ones that were still running. I decided to grab a snack so I went into a little café for coffee and a cake and killed a little time reading before the restaurants opened again for dinner. Afterwards, I made my way back to my room for an early night.
Unfortunately, the next day the weather wasn’t very good which meant that my plans to go up Monte Solaro weren’t going to be possible as the chairlift wasn’t running. Instead I caught the bus into Capri to walk along the coastal path suggested by the owners of my B&B and take in some of the places in my favourite book. Upon my arrival, I stopped at the top of the funicular to get my bearings and take some photographs of the marina below. It was here that I met a little boy named Liam. He was very politely trying to get to my viewpoint whilst I was stood there making sure I’d got a half decent photo. After a brief exchange with his Mum I decided to move on in the general direction the crowds were heading, and then I heard a little voice “Momma, where’s my friend gone?” and so began my firm friendship with a three-and-a-half-year-old and his Mum.
We set off along the coastal path that would take in plenty of sights on my list including the Hotel Luna, Arco Naturale and Certosa di San Giacomo, pretending to be aeroplanes on runways and playing other games on the way. After our 5 mile walk we stopped in the Piazzetta for lunch, indulging in pizza and local white wine. As Liam needed to return to the hotel we parted ways after swapping contact details so that we could meet up the following day and explore Anacapri. I got the bus back to my B&B and had a short nap before showering and getting ready for dinner.
I walked into Anacapri’s main square the following day and was so pleased the sun was out and I could see that the chair lift was up and running again. Meeting Hanh and Liam off the bus, we made our way up to the entrance to buy our tickets. We purchased single tickets, deciding to walk back down the mountain for lunch in the town. As I have an intense dislike for any sort of ride or rollercoaster to say I was not keen on the idea of scaling the 589 metres in a single wooden chair with only an unsecured lap bar for safety. However, unwilling to show my dread in front of a fearless 3-year-old up we went to the boarding area. Bravado will only get you so far though and there was absolutely no way I was getting on this contraption first, so I let Mother and Son go ahead and take their seat so I could watch as they fell to what was sure to be their imminent demise.
Once en-route I realised it wasn’t all that bad, it was quite slow and steady and I even managed to film the passing scenery as I went. It was all quite lovely gliding along in the sunshine looking over the island until I realised I was nearing the moment I would have to jump off this moving chair, and the terror began again. Arriving at the top I was primed and ready to hop off, and that’s what I did but somehow, I was still attached. Realising that my rucksack strap was caught in the wooden slats and I was about to head back down the mountain for free, but this time I’d be dangling from the chair by my armpits! Even the attendant looked a little nervous as he wrenched me loose and shoved me, rather unglamorously, out of the way. Near death experience over, we walked up the few stairs onto the patio-style summit and took in the beautiful panoramic vista that made the whole harrowing trip worthwhile.
Apart from a small café with a few seats, there wasn’t anything else at the top of the mountain, which was somewhat disappointing. So, we took as many photographs as we needed and started on the path that would lead us back to town. As we were just reaching the bottom the grey clouds, that had been looming since the start of our descent, decided to open. Hurrying to find somewhere for lunch before the rain came down harder. After lunch and a look in the few shops open on the island in November it was time for Hanh and Liam to catch their bus back to Capri. We said our goodbyes with promises to meet up in Rome later in the week. That evening I battled the elements to go out for dinner, arriving back at my B&B afterwards soaked to the skin and sending up a silent prayer all my stuff would be dry by the morning for packing.
The next day I boarded the bus to Marina Grande and felt sad to be leaving. However, my mood was lightened as we rounded the corner into the bus stop and standing there waiting to greet me were Hanh and Liam. They walked me to my ferry and as they waved me off I didn’t feel so bad.